DINING SURVEY New York Metro Dining

Fish, Italian Style

David Pasternack is so crazy about fish that when he’s not behind the stoves you are likely to find him holding a fishing pole in a boat anchored off Long Island’s South Shore. Pasternack’s catch, along with the other high-quality fish and shellfish that he sources, turns up on his menu as crudos of tilefish with blood oranges, hamachi with pickled green tomatoes, or in an appetizer of baccalà stewed with porcini mushrooms and Yukon Gold potatoes. Some say pasta is Pasternack’s strong suit, and creative fare like rigatoni with bluefin tuna meatballs or his signature maccheroni alla chittara with crab and sea urchin seem to bolster that argument. Mains run from more traditional dishes like monkfish sautéed with broccoli rabe and raisins to a frito misto that stretches the boundaries of the dish with skate and scrod in the assortment of delights. There is also a variety of whole fish on offer, including a hefty sea bass for two that Pasternack roasts in a salt crust. The wine list contains a number of unusual bottles from some of Italy’s lesser-known regions, and it comes with the added bonus of pricing that isn’t half bad considering that the restaurant is a Batali & Bastianich production. Speaking of Messrs Mario & Joe, there are those who believe that Pasternack has quietly turned this into the best restaurant in their empire, while even those who disagree with that assessment say Esca is easily the best restaurant in the theater district.

Participant Reviews (2009)

I know the place is renowned for its seafood, but, honestly, on my meal there, it's the pasta that clearly stood out. That's all I'll get next time.

Participant Reviews (2008)

Not a bad version of fish Italian style. I wish it was a hair better and I would go more often

A good pre or post theater option. Fresh fish simply prepared

Extraordinarily good crudo, fine pasta especially the uni sauce, good fish in general

Caveat: a "must go" only if one is not offended by a very informal setting and loud rack 'n' roll atmosphere. If you're looking for killer seafood (best octopus ever, top-of-the-line crudo, whole fish) and other tasty treats then run and do not walk

Fresh, inventive, Italian seafood restaurant with a good list of Italian wines at all price ranges

Another winner from Mario Battali. Wonderful, fresh seafood offered in a variety of interesting preparations. The crudo dishes are a highlight as is the squid ink pasta and pasta with lobster

When it first opened it was stunningly good. Each subsequent visit its a little worse. Won't return

Pristinely fresh seafood and terrific pasta in a prime theatre district location. Warning - portions can be small for the price

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