Top 50 Japanese Restaurants 2016
1 Sushi Saito
Given how difficult it is to get a reservation at this Roppongi restaurant (calling it impossible is an understatement), it is fitting that Chef Takashi Saito’s restaurant has taken the number one spot in our first Japanese survey. A former apprentice at Sushi Kanesaka, Saito has perfected Kanesaka-style sushi with carefully chosen seafood, flawless execution, and extreme precision. His sushi always has a perfect balance of flavors between neta and well-seasoned shari, and every piece he places in front of his guests is the exact same size, shape and temperature. Given the level of consistency of the experience, and Saito’s ability to deliver impeccable morsels of sushi over and over again, we understand why some of our reviewers visit this restaurant three or four times a year.
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2 Matsukawa
The consensus among locals is that Matsukawa is the best traditional kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo. Chef Matsukawa is a gentle and rather shy chef, but he excels in transforming the most pristine ingredients into masterpieces by combining simplistic yet impeccable flavors with elegant Japanese aesthetics. From course to course, from sashimi to grilled food, from seafood to dashi, his food captures the heart and soul of every customer. His rice course, complemented with ikura (salmon roe, fresh karasumi (mullet roe), and chirimen with sansho peppercorns and seaweed, is an irresistible and unforgettable signature offering. This is an introduction-only restaurant – the only way you can get in is to be invited by a regular.
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3 Michel Bras Toya
Michael Bras Toya, located in the Windsor Hotel Toya, has become a must-visit restaurant for those who want to sample the finest French cuisine in Toya, Hokkaidoaido. Simone Cantafion, the chef and director of the restaurant, continues to showcase the heart and soul of Michel Bras’ cuisine in each dish, complemented with local Japanese seafood and produce. Patrons often find themselves completely seduced by the breathtaking view of Lake Toya, the flawless and attentive service and, most importantly, the stunning food, presented with the attention that might be devoted to a piece of fine art, with flavors to match.
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Windsor Hotel Toya, Shimizu, Toyako-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido Toya, Japan +81 01 42 73 111 www.windsor-hotels.co.jp
4 Kyo Aji
Tokyo is a place where a restaurant that was handed down to the chef from his father is not all that unusual. That’s the story at Kyoaji, perhaps the most legendary kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo, where 76-year-old chef Kenichiro Nishi and his big team (re-)create dishes that he inherited from his father decades ago. The restaurant religiously follows the traditions of the kaiseki meal, with every detail meticulously executed and flavors balanced perfectly. Seasonality is often reflected in poetic ways, with presentations intended to illustrate specific seasons and scenes in nature. There’s a strict introduction-only policy and an extremely long reservation list, so you should consider it a privilege to be able to enjoy a meal here.
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5 Sushi Sawada
Although Chef Koji Sawada is a self-trained sushi chef, he is able to impress his customers with the highest-quality tuna, uni and other seafood. His omakase with the most extravagant seafood comes with a hefty price tag, but many customers are so impressed by the quality that they will order extra sushi for an ultimate splurge. Chef Sawada’s seared toro, which he cooks while holding slices of fatty tuna over burning binchotan charcoal, never fails to please our reviewers.
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6 Den
Zaiyu Hasegawa has injected new energy into the traditional kaiseki experience. His witty and fun creations are backed up by meticulous preparations; every dish at Den is one of a kind, something you won’t find in other kaiseki restaurants in Tokyo. From Hasegawa’s foie gras monaka to his “Dentucky” fried chicken wings, famous pickled salad (now with a crispy ant from Nagano) and wagyu beef shoulder served on rice, the entire meal is one surprise after another. Den is super-popular with foreign chefs and foodies; none other than Noma’s René Redzepi said Hasegawa’s suppon (soft-shell turtle) soup was the best he ever had. In addition to the delicious and interesting food, the hospitality extended by Zaiyu and his staff makes for an extra-special experience.
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7 Ishikawa
Featuring exceptional hospitality and impeccable food prepared with extreme care, Ishikawa, located in Kagurazaka, has become one of the most popular traditional kaiseki restaurants among international travelers. Chef Hideki Ishikawa utilizes high-quality seasonal ingredients, and his execution is always spot-on, accentuating the flavors with his own techniques. His rice course is consistently eye-catching, and customers feel pampered, as Chef Ishikawa scoops out every bowl of mixed rice for his guests. The leftover rice, made into onigiri (rice balls) to take home, is the best breakfast one could ask for.
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5-37 Kagurazaka Shinjuku-ku, Japan 03-5225-0173 www.kagurazaka-ishikawa.co.jp
8 Ryugin
There are now a number of chefs who serve this style of creative kaiseki, which revolves around implementing modern techniques with artistic presentations superimposed on a traditional kaiseki meal. But when Chef Seiji Yamamoto first came onto the scene, Ryugin was the only restaurant that offered this type of cooking. Everyone marvels at Yamamoto’s signature dessert –a 196-degree strawberry (or seasonal fruit) served with 99-degree strawberry jam. Now that this is one of the most famous restaurants in the city, Chef Seijo has opened branches of Ryugin in both Taipei and Hong Kong.
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7-17-24 Roppongi Minato-ku - Tokyo, Japan 106 03-3423-8006 www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
9 Miyamasou
Miyamasou, the famous ryokan (inn) wildly admired by Japanese locals and foreigners alike, is a place where the experience extends way beyond just the food. It offers 摘草料理, or tsumigusa ryori, which means “freshly picked” and is, in essence, the Japanese version of the type of foraging that put restaurants like Noma on the map. While the European understanding of foraging includes sustainability and preserving for the future, ecological and environmental concerns are not part of the experience at Miyamasou: It’s all about consuming ingredients on the day, or even at the moment, when they are perfect to eat. Many visitors stay overnight so that they can enjoy the whole ryokan experience, which includes a breakfast that features the same flavors of the countryside. Dining at this special place involves learning how one can become absorbed into the surroundings and nature, which, combined with the food, makes for a memorable experience.
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10 Sushi Mitani
Sushi Mitani is one of the most difficult-to-reserve sushi restaurants in Japan. In fact, the restaurant claims they are fully booked through the end of 2017, and the small 7- to 9-seat place is consistently full of patrons seeking the most extravagant experience. Despite the fact that this is a well-known sushi restaurant, Chef Mitani has a tendency to start the meal by showering his guests with a series of luxurious otsumami courses featuring both traditional items like otoro and uni, as well as nontraditional dishes like various caviars. A strong interest in wine means that his restaurant is one of the few top sushi places in Tokyo where you can enjoy an extravagant omakase with wine pairings – providing you can figure out how to get a seat.
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11 Kitcho - Kyoto
Kunio Tokuoka is the third generation in his family to act as chef at Kitcho; he follows in the footsteps of his father and grandfather as he creates a once-in-a-lifetime kaiseki experience in an elegant, breathtaking space in Arashiyama, on the outskirts of Kyoto. Each dish is an exquisite combination of flavors, colors, shapes and imagery, with kaiseki accents and correlated with the seasons. Even the smallest details of the meal are thought through and perfected. This is one of the most expensive kaiseki restaurants in Japan, but reviewers enjoy the food so much that complaints about the experience are rare.
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58 Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho Ukyo-ku Kyoto Kyoto Shimogyo-ku Kyoto-shi, Kyoto, Japan +81 75-342-0808 www.kitcho.com
12 Mizai
Hidden inside the green forest of Maruyama Park lies this golden destination for many gourmets and foodies who want to get the ultimate kaiseki experience in Japan. It has earned high ranking in every major dining guide, so it is no surprise that seats at the restaurant are extremely difficult to secure; you may have to book a reservation nine months to a year in advance. The décor of the restaurant reflects the ultimate Japanese aesthetics of wabi-sabi, simple yet elegant. Chef Hitoshi Ishihara is a wonderful host who exhibits a calm and gentle composure. The cuisine is anything but modest and minimal. It is lavishly accomplished in both quantity and quality, and Ishihara-san’s restaurant will wow the taste buds as well as the eyes.
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13 Sushiya
At the young age of 31, Takao Ishiyama has already made a name for himself among local and international diners. Takao-san’s rise to fame has been quick. Many people credit his meteoric success to his training at Sushi Saito. But most of his apprenticeship occurred under the tutelage, in Ginza, of Chef Kanesaka, who appointed him to take over Sushiya as the head chef with the goal of providing more affordable sushi compared to other sushi restaurants in the area. Given that cost is a consideration, the seafood at Sushiya doesn’t feature the same premium varieties of fish that you will find at places with more expensive price points. But what you lose in otoro and uni is more than made up for by Ishiyama’s skills, which are nothing short of top-notch and are superior to those of many of his peers and even older sushi chefs.
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14 Hajime
Prior to deciding to work as a chef in 2008, Osaka native Chef Hajime Yoneda made his living as an engineer and enjoyed painting on the side. His decision obviously paid off, as ever since he opened the restaurant’s doors, Hajime has been a sensation. Yoneda makes good use of his background, employing modern techniques to create dishes that combine nature and science. His preparations are meticulous, the flavors are well-balanced and harmonious, and his dramatically presented plates reflect a distinct aesthetic sense.
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Nishi-ku Kita-ku, Osaka, Japan +81 664 476 688 www.hajime-artistes.com
15 Harutaka
Having spent 10 years working for the legendary Jiro Ono, Chef Harutaka Takahashi serves one of the best examples of sushi “Jiro style”: slices of the highest-quality fish and a well-calibrated shari molded with the most skillful of hands. Unlike his mentor’s restaurant, which serves only sushi, Takahashi serves a full array of tsumami (cold and hot appetizers) to start the meal, all magnificently prepared. Reviewers say that Chef Takahashi’s sushi has gotten better and better over the years, and for those who like this style of sushi (larger slices of fish and vinegary rice), the experience is much more relaxed than at Sukiyabashi Jiro.
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16 Quintessence
An alumnus of L’Astrance in Paris, Chef Shuzo Kishida follows the same principle of cooking in three processes: “Respecting the products, precision cooking and attention to detail and seasoning properly.” Only one tasting menu is available, and the whole meal is a gastronomic journey based on a progressive development of flavors. Chef Shuzo is a fan of slow cooking in the French style; his signature main dish – which features meat taken in and out of the oven 20 to 30 times and cooked at a low temperature for an hour – showcases his innovative cooking techniques.
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Shinagawa Gotenyama 1F, Kitashinagawa 6-7-29, Garden City, Tokyo, +81 3-6277-0485 Minato-ku - Tokyo, Japan 03-5791-3715 www.quintessence.jp
17 Yukimura Azabu
Yukimura Azabu is one of the most famous upscale kaiseki restaurants in Tokyo. Chef Jun Yukimura comes from the iconic kaiseki temple Wakuden, a place whose kitchen served as the training ground for many young chefs before they opened their own restaurants. What sets his cuisine apart is his commitment to perfecting traditional kaiseki recipes combined with a personal touch that borders on the creative. Chef Yukimura has two signature dishes of note: karasumi soba is offered in most of the restaurants opened by his students, though none do it as well as the master himself, and during the winter months, he offers crab of especially superior quality that is highly sought after by Tokyo dining aficionados.
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18 Nakamura
Opened in 1827 and today run by the fourth generation of the same family, the cuisine at Nakamura has gone through various iterations and changes over the close to 200 years that the restaurant has been in business. Back in the day, it made a name for itself by pioneering a cuisine that utilized fish and seafood that were unusual for a kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto to serve at the time. The storied history and the mix of traditional preparations and a contemporary cuisine, with abundant creativity and energy injected into the mix, makes the restaurant useful both for those who are looking for a delicious meal and for those who want a better understanding of how older forms of kaiseki interact with the way the cuisine is prepared today. The refined Kyoto-style cuisine with a touch of modern sensibility makes Nakamura a great place to learn about the transformation of Kyoto cuisine over time.
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Tominokoji Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, Japan +81 75 221 5511 www.kyoryori-nakamura.com
19 Kahala
The kaiseki restaurants in Osaka that have caught the attention of the international dining community number far less than those in Tokyo or Kyoto. That should tell you something about the quality of the cuisine at Kahala, where the creative and fusion approach to kaiseki cuisine differentiates it from traditional kaiseki establishments. Instead of yuba, diners will enjoy caciocavallo cheese; there is curry bread with coffee oil; wagyu is done in “mille-feuille” style, a signature dish that is a favorite among those who post photos on social media. Even when it comes to interacting with his customers, Chef Yoshifumi Mori takes a more contemporary approach, abandoning the stern demeanor associated with many kaiseki chefs for an approach based on his love of interacting with his customers and a desire to explain his cooking style. Some reviewers describe the experience as a bit on the flamboyant and theatrical side, but the vast majority find it highly entertaining.
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20 Il Ristorante
Il Ristorante, located above the Bulgari retail boutique in Ginza, is one of the most luxurious fine-dining Italian restaurants in Tokyo. Everything inside – the décor, the atmosphere, the food, even the staff's uniforms – coordinates with the brand's sophisticated designs and upscale image. Chef Luca Fantin is a darling in the city’s culinary circles, and his contemporary Italian food has attracted fans from all over the world. Fantin often combines ingredients that he has sourced from Italy with high-quality local produce to create presentations that are so gorgeous they could pass for works of art in a gallery. Much like Bulgari itself, what you get is not just the beautiful designs but also quality and refinement – and most importantly, absolutely delicious food. Though it is expensive for Italian food, you can console yourself that you are paying for a Bulgari.
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Ginza Tower - 2-7-12 Ginza Tokyo, Japan +81 6 6313 1575 www.bulgarihotels.com
21 Sushi Mizutani
The small shop run by Chef Hachiro Mizutani has been one of the most revered sushi restaurants in Tokyo for many years. Chef Mizutani learned his trade while working at Sukiyabashi Jiro, and the sushi he serves is in the Jiro tradition. If you book one of the nine seats seats at his counter, do not be surprised if you find that Chef Mizutani has a dual personality: He is very intense and rarely speaks during the sushi service, and he does not allow guests to take pictures. But after the service is over, he will come around from behind the counter to laugh and joke with his customers, and even take photos with them.
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22 Florilège
Florilege, located in Jingumae, Shibuya, is one of the premiere contemporary French restaurants in Tokyo. In 2015, the restaurant moved to a new location that features a stunningly beautiful open kitchen, wrapped by seating at a U-shaped counter. While this type of setup is common in other countries, the ability to watch the chefs in action in such a communal space is groundbreaking for Japan. Hiroyasu Kawate is one of the most creative chefs in the city, creating unconventional dishes that surprise and excite customers with flavor combinations they have never experienced before. The restaurant is also one of the few places in Japan that offer juice pairings. The creativity, high level of execution, and sincere hospitality result in both locals and overseas customers paying regular visits to this one-of-a-kind restaurant.
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23 7 Chome Kyobashi
7 Chome Kyobashi, under Chef Shigeya Sakakibara, is famous for its light tempura batter and high-quality ingredients, all cooked with extreme precision. Unlike at most tempura restaurants, the chef’s tempura is served with just lemon juice and salt, and without tentsuyu (the dipping sauce that the typical accoutrement for tempura). This is also one of the most expensive restaurants in Tokyo, if not all of Japan. Shigeya-san is the fourth generation of his family to run this restaurant.
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24 Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon
One of the most iconic French restaurants in Tokyo, Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon has been serving high-quality French cuisine here since 1994. Starting with the castle-like exterior and luxurious décor, it goes on to dazzle diners with every detail and impresses them with extravagant and pristine ingredients, prepared in meticulous fashion. The classic Robuchon dishes are served here, along with new ones incorporating the finest Japanese produce, seafood and meat. This is one of the most expensive French restaurants in Tokyo, but well worth the price.
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1-13-1 Mita Meguro-ku, Japan 03-5424-1347 www.robuchon.jp
25 L’Osier
L’Osier was established in Ginza, Tokyo, in 1973, making it one of the oldest French restaurants in Tokyo and a throwback to the nouvelle cuisine era. Management recently appointed executive chef Olivier Chaignon to oversee the kitchen, a change that has not had a negative impact on the food. Chaignon has maintained the historically high standards: Every stunningly presented dish is a perfect composition offering layers of mouth-watering flavors. Reviewers often comment about the luxurious space and flawless service.
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Chūō-Kyo Tokyo, Japan +81 3-3571-6050 losier.shiseido.co.jp/e
26 Les Créations de Narisawa
Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa’s cooking places an emphasis on two important principles: season and nature. Narisawa uses the finest ingredients and prepares them using very innovative techniques. His 10-course meal allows diners to experience a series of dishes that reflect a journey through a variety of seasonal landscapes. Sustainability, another important focus for this chef, is often reflected in the presentations, names, imageries and elements of the dishes.
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2-6-15 Minami-Aoyama Minato-ku - Tokyo, Japan 03-5785-0799 www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com
27 Hyotei
Established over 400 years ago, Hyotei is one of the oldest restaurants in Japan. It offers its patrons the ultimate dining experience, from an elegant Zen environment to an exquisite traditional kaiseki-ryori and unmatchable service that represents Japanese omotenashi (the spirit of Japanese hospitality) at its best. Their traditional Japanese breakfast is very popular, and their signature hyotei tamago, a soft-boiled egg made with their own special recipe, is not to be missed.
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28 Kawamura
Many people who live in Tokyo consider Kawamura the city’s ultimate steakhouse. As you sit at the counter, Chef Kawamura will proudly present you with what he claims are the best wagyu steaks, caviars, abalone and white truffles not just in Japan but in the world. Patrons are pampered with a constant flow of extravagant ingredients prepared any way they want, and diners have the option of topping any dish with caviar or truffles. It is even possible to order a whole deep-fried truffle! Kawamura-san is a wine lover, and the quality of the bottles he offers diners can match the quality of the ingredients he serves. As one can expect, given this type of quality, there is a hefty price tag attached. But part of what you are paying for is not just the food, but the privilege of getting in, as a reservation here is one of the most difficult to secure in Tokyo. Not only do you need an introduction from a regular, but the person who has introduced you to the restaurant has to accompany you to the meal.
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29 Cuisine[s] Michel Troisgros
In this restaurant in the Hyatt Regency Tokyo, Michel Troisgros has done an exemplary job of transporting his signature cuisine acidulée from Roanne, France, to Tokyo. The impeccable service allows diners to enjoy long meals without feeling suffocated. The restaurant is perfect for business and casual lunches alike, and is especially wonderful when the sunlight streams through its giant windows. This is a perfect example of what can be achieved when a chef marries nouvelle French cuisine with superior-quality Japanese ingredients.
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2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan 03-5321-3915 www.troisgros.jp
30 Hashiguchi sushi
This chef does not allow his customers to take photographs of his food, nor will he allow Michelin inspectors to review his restaurant. Nevertheless, Sushi Hashiguchi in Akasaka is one of the most sought-after sushi restaurants in Tokyo. Chef Hashigushi serves only six customers at a time, and a typical omakase includes both tsumami and nigiri sushi, all prepared by the chef himself. Unlike some sushi restaurants in Tokyo that attract foreign diners by serving lots of big-money fish like fatty tuna, this is a good choice for diners who are interested in sampling perfect examples of a more esoteric selection of high-quality, seasonal fish.
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31 Shima
Unlike most of the steakhouses, Shima is homey and cozy and more like a casual, family-run, Western-style restaurant. From classic starters, such as salmon carpaccio, beef tartare, fresh oysters and onion soup, to the wagyu steaks and desserts, every dish is prepared with care and attention. If you reserve a seat at the counter, Chef Oshima Manabu will show you various slabs of wagyu, sourced from a family farm in Kyoto, and you will choose the type, weight and cooking temperature you prefer. Chef Ohshima will then trim and cook the steak right in front of you, working with his wife and son. The graciousness with which the family receives diners makes them feel like they are enjoying food at a friend’s home. An excellent way to prolong the experience is to order the house signature steak sandwich – filled an inch thick with steak pieces, enough to be shared with two of three people – to have for lunch the next day.
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32 Sushi Yoshitake
Chef Masahiro Yoshitake’s original style of sushi, friendly personality and approachable service have won him a lot of international fans. The omakase at Yoshitake begins with lots of scrumptious appetizers, like uni served atop soft tofu, tender octopus, thinly sliced hirami (flounder), seared bonito and the house signature: abalone with abalone liver sauce. This is a great choice for those who want more than just the classic sushi experience.
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19 Ginza Chuo-ku Tokyo, Japan 03-6253-7331 sushi-yoshitake.com/persistence_e.html
33 Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi
Referred to as Jiro Roppongi, this is the second outpost of the legendary sushi restaurant SukiyTokyoabashi Jiro Honten in GinzaRoppongi, Minato-Ko, . Run by Jiro’s youngest son, Takashi Ono, the restaurant provides a more foreigner-friendly environment (the staff speaks good English) and is easier to reserve. While it would be unrealistic to say Takashi Ono has achieved the same level of craftsmanship as his father, his style of sushi making is derivative of his father’s. The experience includes both tsumami (snacks and sashimi courses) as well as nigiri sushi. While it isn’t quite the same as visiting his father’s landmark restaurant, it’s a terrific alternative for those who want to sample Jiro-style sushi under the same brand name.
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34 Takazawa
Takazawa attracts a mostly international clientele and was one of the first French restaurants in Tokyo to utilize modern gastronomic techniques. The ingredients are Japanese-centric, and the presentations often depict images of nature and the environment. The restaurant’s signature dish, mosaic of vegetable terrine, is one of the most beautiful dishes in all of Japan; photos of it can be found all over social media. The exemplary service is overseen by Chef Takazawa’s wife, who pays personal attention to every customer and carefully looks after the smallest of details. Thoughtful sake pairings add to the experience, something unusual for a French restaurant.
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3-5-2 Akasaka Tokyo, Japan +81 3 3505 5052 aroniadetakazawa.com
35 Sushiso Masa
Having worked at a restaurant called Sushi Sho, Chef Masakatsu Oka incorporated the name of his mentor’s place into his own when he opened this simple location in the basement of a building just off one of Roppongi’s busiest intersections. But the similarities stop with the name, as Oka has developed his own original style: he utilizes different parts of a fish or shellfish in two or three different treatments, such as sashimi, grilled and sushi. Oka is known for serving the smallest pieces of sushi of all the masters working in Tokyo; an omakase dinner easily turns into a meal made up of 30 to 40 morsels. Chef Masa is extremely friendly and loves to interact with his guests, so diners will feel comfortable and relaxed over the course of the two-and-a-half-hour dinner.
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36 Sushi Tokami
Located in the basement of a building in Ginza in the space that formerly held Sushi Iwa, the 10-seat Sushi Tokami is headed by young sushi chef Hiroyuki Sato. Although Sato is the son of a sushi chef, he initially shunned the family trade in order to work in a French restaurant. Eventually he came back to his roots and trained to become taisho of Sushi Tokami. His background in French cuisine is reflected in the style of the sushi he serves; Sato-san often incorporates more contemporary techniques or concepts, such as slow-cooked ankimo (monkfish livers), hot and cold uni, and tamago brûlée, making his cuisine creative and original without losing the integrity of traditional sushi.
Sato-san is also famous for his premium maguro; his tuna is sourced from the biggest supplier of tuna in Tokyo. His three tunas – maguro, chutoro and otoro – are some of the best in town, particularly when paired with his strong shari (sushi rice), flavored with two types of red vinegars. Tokami has recently opened a branch in Hong Kong, but Sato-san still spends most of his time in Tokyo.
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8 Chome-2-9 Ginza Tokyo, Japan +81 3-3571-6005 sushitokami.3zoku.com
37 Pierre Gagnaire
Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo, located on the 36th floor of ANA InterContinental Hotel, is no doubt the best of the three Pierre branches in Asia (the other two are in Hong Kong and Seoul). In addition to a gorgeous view from a window table, one can enjoy reinterpretations of legendary Chef Pierre Gagnaire's recipes with the incorporation of pristine local Japanese ingredients and personal touches by Chef Yosuke Akasaka. The dishes here are crafted with precision and perfected through the Japanese spirit of attention to details. Lunch is reasonably priced, but even dinner is not overly expensive when you consider that you are eating in a hotel with exemplary service and getting a taste of one of the world’s most renowned French chefs without having to fly all the way to Paris.
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1-12-33 Akasaka Minato-ku - Tokyo, Japan 03-3505-9505 www.anaintercontinental-tokyo.jp
38 L’Effervescence
Located deep inside the Tokyo district of Nishi Azabu, L’Effervescence is surrounded by bamboo, and you arrive through a stone-paved entrance that makes the bustling city of Tokyo fade, for a time, into a mere memory. Chef Shinobu Namae, an alumnus of Michel Bras Toya and The Fat Duck, combines innovations with a Japanese aesthetic to great effect. Dishes like his signature whole baked turnips and a salad made with over 40 local vegetables reflect his ability to optimize natural flavors. Chef Namae also shows creativity and playfulness with his apple pie in progressive versions. Patrons can enjoy the exemplary food, attentive service and elegant surroundings at both lunch and dinner.
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39 Mikawa Zezankyo
With his 56 years of experience of dipping the most perfectly selected pieces of seafood from Tokyo Bay into delicate batter and then frying them perfectly, Chef Tetsuya Saotome’s restaurant has become the temple of tempura in Tokyo. In fact, reviewers often refer to him as the “Jiro of tempura.” The offerings are almost entirely seafood, and the ingredients are of such high quality that you can still savor their fresh flavor under the tempura batter. The strong note of sesame oil means bolder flavors, something that is typical in more traditional tempura restaurants. Chef Saotome is also a visual artist: his hand-drawn menu, the giant, hat-shaped copper ventilator above his workspace, and all of his ceramics and dishware are pieces of art that diners can appreciate while enjoying the food.
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1-3-1 Fukuzumi, Koto-ku tokyo, japan +81 3-3643-8383 mikawa-zezankyo.jimdo.com
40 Ukai-tei Omotesando
Ukai-tei Ginza, the famous teppanyaki specialty restaurant, is known for using extravagant inredients, such as caviar, whole giant abalone, lobster and wagyu beef. The raw and cold appetizers are of superb quality, and the grilled foods are skillfully prepared by experienced chefs on a teppanyaki grill-top right in front of the customers. But this is not entertainment: The whole package – impeccable service and a luxurious décor paired with the finest food – makes for a memorable meal that can’t be found outside Japan.
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5-10-1 Jingu-mae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 03-5467-5252 www.omotesando-ukaitei.jp
41 Aragawa
Tucked away in a dark alley of Shinbashi, Aragawa is one of the most famous steakhouses in Tokyo, featuring well-marbled Sanda wagyu beef. The décor is modest, the menu is simple, and the service is bare-bones. One goes primarily for the prized beefsteak, cut into 2- to 3-centimeter pieces for sirloin and 5 to 6 centimeters for tenderloin, and grilled on skewers over binchotan charcoal. If the steak is not enough to impress you or your guests, the hefty price tag certainly will.
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42 Yanagiya
Eating at 柳家 Yanagiya in Gifu is a one-of-a-kind experience. The remote location in a deserted area, combined with a rustic style of cooking that takes place while diners sit around a hearth, seems a bit unreal for people who travel from the inner cities. The cuisine focuses on ingredients that come from the local countryside, such as ayu (sweet fish) and river trout, which are caught every day by the son of the owner at the nearby river, and wild game from the nearby mountains. The kitchen is void of machines or advanced technology, and both fish and meat are grilled over binchotan charcoal directly in front of the customers. Despite the rejection of modern technology, the results are astounding and often superior to food prepared with fancy gadgets. Seasoning is minimal, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves. The experience allows one to appreciate the power and joy of the most fundamental style of cooking and is a wonderful counter to meals where diners are “pampered” by the new era of advanced cooking technology.
photo credit: Margaret Lam
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43 Sukiyabashi Jiro
While Sukiyabashi Jiro has been an iconic sushiya in Japan for decades, the documentary film Jiro Dreams of Sushi has made the 90-year-old sushi master Jiro Ono internationally famous. To describe Jiro as a legend is an understatement. Jiro-san has 82 years of traditional edomae sushi experience under his belt, and he not only developed his own style of sushi – which has influenced a number of famous sushi chefs who trained with him as apprentices – he pioneered many practices, such as serving white fish before tuna and boiling kuruma ebi (shrimps) just before serving them so his guests could enjoy them while still warm. These innovations and others have become standard steps and techniques employed by numerous sushi chefs.
Eating 20 pieces of sushi within 30 minutes (Jiro san works quickly) may sound too fast and too harsh for some people, especially at a cost of ¥30,000, but when you consider that someone who is 90 years old is willing to dedicate 30 minutes of his precious time to demonstrate for you the art of sushi perfected through 82 years of continuous practice, consider yourself very lucky. As one reviewer who is a regular at the restaurant described the experience: Each piece of sushi is gold, and each minute you spend with the master is priceless.
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Basement 1st Floor, 2-15 Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan 03-3535-3600 www.sushi-jiro.jp
44 Obana
Obana is a small unagi (freshwater eel) specialist that was established at the beginning of the Meiji era (1868–1912) in Minami-Senju. While it is far from the city and does not allow reservations, unagi lovers do not mind the long trip and are happy to wait in the queue for the chance to eat there. Obana practices Kanto-style unagi preparation, meaning that the freshwater eels are slaughtered at the belly and steamed first before grilling, resulting in very soft and tender eel meat. From usaku (grilled eel in vinegar sauce) to umaki (eel egg rolls) and shirayaki (unagi on rice in lacquered box), Obana offers an authentic unagi experience that has barely changed since the restaurant opened over 100 years ago.
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45 Sojiki Nakahigashi
Soujiki Nakahigashi is one of the most unique kaiseki restaurants in Kyoto. Chef Hisao Nakahigashi sources most of his ingredients in the morning and prepares them the same day, a practice that he started way before foraging became the “it” thing in Western world. His dishes have an appeal that goes far beyond just their flavors – each one is designed to project a scene, suggest an image, or tell a story. Even the names of the dishes can rhyme with idioms or folklores. The importance of rice is clear in the precise preparation and explanation by the chef; less predictable is the skillful coffee service. Chef Nakahigashi is incredibly chatty and funny, and if you can understand his Japanese stories, you will have a fun meal and, along with the other customers at the 12-seat counter, learn a lot at the same time.
photo credit: Cathy Ho
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46 Ginza Koju
Ginza Koju is classic example of a Japanese restaurant designed to appeal to both local diners and international visitors. Applying culinary techniques associated with the core of the traditional kaiseki experience, Chef Toru Okuda creates dishes that appeal to urban sensibilities while maintaining Japanese artistry in the presentation of the food. The counter seating allows diners to watch Chef Okuda’s preparation of the dishes, while the private rooms are ideal for group dining and celebration. Ginza Koju became so popular with visiting French diners that Chef Okuda has opened a restaurant in Paris named Okuda.
photo credit: Margaret Lam
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8-5-25 Ginza Chuo-ku, Japan 03-6215-9544 www.kojyu.jp
47 Sushi Sho
Sushi Sho rose to fame when it was the domain of the legendary Keiji Nakazawa. What set Chef Nakazawa apart from other sushi chefs was his pioneering of a number of techniques that have been since been adopted by other chefs, such as long aging of maguro, using both red and white vinegared sharis (mounds of sushi rice), and a style of omakase that features otsumami served between nigiri sushi courses. His influence was so extensive that a number of his apprentices have opened their own shops and made Sho-style sushi popular among sushi aficionados. But all good things must come to an end, and as of the first of the year, Nakazawa has left to open his own restaurant in Honolulu. In his big shoes now stands his talented apprentice, Chef Shingo Takahashi, whose talent is more than sufficient to keep the restaurant’s regular customers happy(note:photo is of Nakazawa san)
photo credit: Margaret Lam
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48 Seizan
Just when it seems that the most prestigious and long-established kaiseki restaurants have secured a stable circle of regular clients, which makes it nearly impossible for newcomers to secure a table, along comes the next generation of kaiseki chefs who have trained with the masters and have opened their own restaurants. Chef Haruhiko Yamamoto is one of them. By using high-quality, luxurious ingredients and elevating them using precise execution, Chef Yamamoto is able to create dishes that feature clean and delicate flavors yet still have a strong impact, while keeping the cost down to half of what a meal costs at a more famous kaiseki restaurant. The atmosphere is extremely relaxed, and Chef Yamamoto never stops smiling, taking care of his customers’ every want and need. It’s not surprising that Seizan has become a favorite of many locals and foreign travelers, making reservations more difficult to obtain than at places that feature chefs who are much more senior than Chef Yamamoto.
photo credit: Margaret Lam
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2-17-29 Mita Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan +81 3-3451-8320 www.seizan-mita.com
49 Koryu
The combination of high rankings in various food guides and reasonable pricing has caused Koryu to become a destination for many Japanese food aficionados as well as overseas visitors who are willing to travel to Osaka for a top-notch meal. Chef Shintaro Matsuo’s cuisine focuses on utilizing high-quality produce from the surrounding Kansai region, along with the occasional extravagant ingredient sourced from another location; the result is a menu that showcases combinations of Kansai flavors, a style that is unique and different from what you find in Kyoto or Tokyo. Chef Matsuo’s extensive otsukuri—the sashimi course, served on a beautiful lacquered box—has become a signature of Koryu's omakase. Sitting at the counter allows you to watch the chef grilling while using skewers, which is a treat in itself.
photo credit: Andy Hayler
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50 Sushi Kaneseka
With an atmosphere that is much more casual and relaxing than at other high-end sushi restaurants, and a selection of fish that typically includes some of the fattiest tuna in Tokyo, Chef Shinji Kanesaka’s restaurant is a popular choice among foreign diners. The staff speaks good English, making it easy for those who travel from overseas to communicate. His original Kanesaka-style sushi became so popular that a number of his apprentices went on to open their own successful restaurants; two prominent ones are Sushi Saito and Sushi Iwa. Chef Kanesaka has expanded his empire to include restaurants in Singapore and Macau.
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