Pass & Provisions
807 TAFT ST
This is actually two restaurants in one. You enter the eatery called Provisions, which features simple fare like charcuterie and pizzas. But after announcing that you have a reservation at The Pass, you follow the hostess to a wall at the back of the restaurant. The wall doesn’t seem to have a door, but then, as if you were watching an Alfred Hitchcock flick set in the Fat Duck, she presses a spot on the wall and a chic dining room appears. Even more fitting is that Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner’s cooking would not be out of place if it were served at Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant. Not that it is a copy, but their cuisine features the type of highly technical cooking and whimsical concepts one associates with a Blumenthal kitchen. One case in point is a dish titled Ham & Eggs that features a caviar service and pork cracklings; another is a bucatini made from nori and served with tofu, uni and clams. Among the most exciting new restaurants to open in 2012, The Pass is poised to play an important role in Houston’s burgeoning dining scene.