New York and Montreal Jews fight about two things: Which city has better bagels, and if New York pastrami is as good as Montreal smoked meat. And since Noah Bernamoff opened this Montreal-style delicatessen, enthusiasts have been shuttling between Boerum Hill and the Lower East Side on a quest to find the definitive answer. Like other culinary pioneers who are interested in recreating, while respectfully updating, the cuisine of their youth, Bernamoff takes an artisanal approach, and his smoked beef has a "longer and more complex finish" than the deli fare most people are used to eating. Business has been so good that Bernamoff just opened a second location in Manhattan.